My Cheap Cyclocross Frame: Part 1

One Word: Nashbar

Whenever I think of high quality bicycle parts at ridiculously low prices, my first thought is always Nashbar.  So Bike Nashbar was my starting point in researching frames and components, and I bought myself their self-branded Nashbar X Aluminum Cyclocross Frame.

Why Nashbar?

I have been buying parts from Nashbar for the better part of 15 years from their catalogs, online, and I have even been to their brick and mortar outlet store in Canfield, Ohio.  They have been selling high quality unbranded bicycle frames for many years.  I even have an aluminum hardtail MTB frame that I bought from them years ago (that I unfortunately have never built up, but that is another story).

Now that I’m done sounding like a commercial for Nashbar, let’s get to the frame.  As I mentioned before, I actually bought two frames.  One for me and one for my wife, but I will detail my frame.

Unpacking the Nashbar X Cyclocross Frame

I bought the $99 Nashbar X Cyclocross frame in size small (more on sizing in Part 2).  The box says Made in Taiwan, and as is the case for most bike frames, it’s probably made in the same factory and assembly line as many other name brand bicycles.  It was well packed in a thick cardboard box.  The frame itself was bubble-wrapped, but all possible contact points were protected with extra foam padding taped and zip-tied into place.  The rear derailleur hanger, cable guides, and other pieces were packed in a separate plastic bag taped to the frame.  Brake posts were also well protected with plastic caps.

Inspecting the Nashbar X Cyclocross Frame

After unwrapping the frame, I looked it over and found no scuffs or scratches.  The Nashbar X Cyclocross frames come in a standard solid flat black paint job with a (cheesy) ‘X’ decal on the steering head (I will be removing that).

The head tube and bottom bracket were both clean and free of paint.  Both have a nice clean machined surface on the flats.  I haven’t measured either tube for squareness (flat, edge to edge around the diameter), but I will trust that they are sufficiently square enough to directly install the headset and bottom bracket (BB) bearings without compromising bearing contact or preload. 

I will note that the threads on the bottom bracket did have some chips left in them from machining.  I carefully cleared them by hand with a cloth and paint thinner.  The chips could’ve been flushed out better from the factory, but the threads all look good and I don’t foresee any problems with threading in the BB bearings.  Really, it’s just a minor inconvenience.  For an otherwise beautiful frame (for only $99!) I cannot complain at all.

In Part 2, I’ll go into more detail on the Nashbar X Cyclocross frame and I will elaborate on my sizing and geometry considerations.  Stay tuned.I

-Chris

My Cheap Cyclocross Bike

Welcome to My Cheap Cyclocross Bike blog.  The title gives you a hint at what you are about to be subjected to reading.  I will be building a high quality cyclocross bike built with new parts for as little cash outlay as possible, and I will document everything I do right here.  I will go through my decision making process for everything I buy.  I will show you how I source what parts and from where.  I will also show you my actual costs including taxes and shipping where applicable.

Why Am I Doing This?!
To put it simply, because I barely have a budget and I want the best possible 'crosser for the money.   I could go out and buy a pretty cheap, complete cyclocross bike like a Motobecane, Nashbar's CX, or I could convert an older used road bike, but that's not what I want.  The reason I am not doing that is because I just don't see the long term value in those econo-built bikes and I believe that I can build my own modern bike for similar cost, but with much higher quality components.  Really, I have nothing against those other budget bikes, but it's not the path I'm pedaling right now.

Goals
I really want a Ridley X-Fire.  But right now, that is not going to happen.  My budget is about half of what a X-Fire frameset alone costs.  My target is to build the complete bike for $900 or less and have it built in time for the Syracuse Grand Prix Cross on October 16, 2011.  If I can't get it together within this 2 month window I'll have to resort to racing my ancient hardtail Haro MTB.  I really want to avoid that.

Some Further Explanation
I have a secondary reason for building my own bike rather than buying one off the shelf.  Building my own bike allows me to pick components that I can eventually migrate to a better bike down the road.  For example:  I might choose a very cheap shifter/brake set for now but also buy an expensive brake set like Avid's Shorty Ultimate.  When I can finally swing that X-Fire frameset, I can stick the Shorty Ultimate brakes onto that build.

The thought here being that some components will stay with the cheap bike and become a backup/training rig to complement my (eventual) Ridley.  I will go into more detail later on, but I am actually building two CX bikes right now, with an eye towards a third dream bike later on.  To understand more of what I am doing, you'll have to read the next post!

-Chris